Lace 103: Cast-ons and Bind-offs for Lace Knitting

Knitted lace grows – sometimes astonishingly. You cannot always tell how much when it is on the needles but once you wash it… Oh, my!

 

In general lace knitting spreads more sideways - just where most of the cast ons and binds offs cannot accommodate a 30% stretch.



A long tail cast-on - broken in blocking



Traditional lace knitters such as those of the Shetland lace fame avoided cast-ons and bind-offs altogether. They did this by casting on with a waste yarn (also known as a provisional cast-on) that was later removed for a knitted lace edging to be attached to the live stitches.

 

 

I love this approach. There are several ways to do a provisional cast on. Use whatever cast-on you like but start with a yarn planned to be removed later. Pick a yarn that is smooth, a similar size as the project yarn and a contrasting color. With most cast-ones this yarn will have to be picked out – a sometimes annoying procedure.

 

My favorite provisional cast-on is the crochet cast-on as it unravels when you are ready to remove it. This is also an elastic cast-on and can be used as “the” cast-on for lace without removing later. If you want a How-to on this cast-on scroll down to a previous blog on the Crochet Cast-On.

 

 

Add a few picots and it is decorative and even more elastic. Another lovely thing about this cast-on - there is a matching bind-off.

 

 

 

Another lace cast-on that is also decorative but not removable is this lace cast-on. It is worked separately to the number of stitches you want minus one. Then with the one stitch on the needle you pick up the stitches along the side. It won’t match the bind-off but that is not necessarily important.

Here is how you work it: Cast-on two stitches. Bring the yarn forward, slip the first stitch (keeping the yarn to the right of the slipped stitch) then knit the next stitch and pass the slipped stitch over. This is basically a yarn over, followed by an SSK. Turn and repeat for the number of stitches needed minus one. This cast-on will work for any lace and creates a nice edge.

 

Try to avoid bind-offs too but If you have to bind off use an elastic one. This is a yarn-over bind-off. Here is how it is worked:

Knit one, yarn-over, knit one; pass yarn-over second knit stitch, pass 1^st knit stitch over second knit stitch; repeat from yarn-over.

 

 

This is another bind-off I like. It is easy to do and more importantly easy to remember how to do it.

Here are the directions for this bind-off: Purl two together. *Place stitch just made from the purl two together back onto the left needle. Purl two together. Repeat from *.

 

Happy Casting On!

Lace Knitting 102: Reading Lace Knitting Charts

"Handsome Shawl" Pattern in Victorian Lace Today by Jane Sowerby


The yarn-over creates the open holes in lace knitting. It also adds a stitch. Thus a yarn-over is usually paired with a decrease such as knit-two-together or slip-knit-wise-times-two then knit-together through the back. The decrease stitch can be next to the yarn-over or several stitches or even rows later.

Cat paw motif

In the chart above the yarn-overs or "holes" are shown as an "O". The decreases are the slanted lines - slanted in the direction of the knit-together either to the right or to the left. The chart looks like the lace will when knitted.

 

Knitting charts have a key to explain what the symbols mean. With the key you can now read the chart.

Reading Lace Knitting Charts

• Each square in the chart represents one stitch.
• Start at the bottom right square - row 1, column 1. Read across from right to left just like knitting a row.
• If knitting in the round continue to read from right to left. In flat knitting the back side (AKA wrong side) has to be read from left to right - the reverse of the right-side.
• In most charts the right-side rows are numbered on the right side of the chart starting with 1. Row 2 is on the back side of the knitting and numbered on the left side of the chart and read from left to right.
• Important note and good news: Many lace patterns have a "rest" row - a knit or purl back row with no yarn-overs or decreases. Lace charts may or may not include these rows. When these rows are omitted from the chart, there will be only one set of numbers usually on the right side and generally the odd numbers.

Even rows are not included in chart. Knit all even rows.

Are you ready to knit some lace? Here is a simple lace edging to try. Lace edgings are a great place to start. The pattern is repeated so many times you will soon memorize it. Notice the rhythm of the lace and begin to "read" the knitting - how the yarn-overs and decreases relate to the ones below. Knitting lace will be easy for you then.

Lace edgings are great fun to add to clothing, tea towels, pillow cases, purses. This edging was knit with a silk yarn and added to a Sabaku T-shirt by sewing the straight side of the knitted lace to the bottom of the shirt with a simple whip stitch by hand. Have fun knitting this edging or try the cat's paw motif. The key works with both charts.

Next blog - cast-ons, tips and tools for knitting lace.

Lace Knitting 101

Lace knitting is so beautiful and looks so intricate some knitters fear trying to knit lace.  That is unfortunate as knitting lace can be a joy. There is rhythm in lace while knitting and a great sense of accomplishment every time a piece is finished.  It is also easy with practice – just like knit/purl stitch patterns or cables.

Lace is a series of yarnovers (an increase stitch) and knit two stitches together (a decrease stitch) that creates a pleasing pattern of overwork contrasted with solid areas.

 

The yarnover is the basic stitch of lace. Most knitters have made yarnovers if only by accident that create a hole in the knitting.  It also happens that if a yarnover is made incorrectly it disappears. This is the way to make a yarnover that leaves a hole:

• In stockinette, on the knit side the yarn starts in the back.
• Pass the yarn between the needles from the back to the front.
• Then pass the yarn over the top of the right hand needle leaving an open loop on the needle.
• Now the yarn is in the back again ready to knit the next stitch or knit two together – whatever the pattern calls for.

 

Note how the loop lays on the needle. The front leg should be ahead of the back leg -the same orientation as the knit stitch when it is on the right needle.

 

 

 

In a purl fabric, a yarnover feels like wrapping the yarn around the needle.

• The yarn is in the front if you are purling.
• To make the yarnover, the yarn has to go over the needle to the back,
• Then the yarn goes between the needles to return to the front and ready to purl.
• The loop is now on the needle in same orientation as the yarnover described in the knit above in the knit yarnover.

Practice some yarnovers in plain stockinette and reverse stockinette. You may want to match them with a decrease or you will end up with a much wider swatch than you started with. The next blog will be about reading patterns and charts for lace and a little pattern to try.

 

 





Upcoming Classes

It’s a great time to take a knitting class. I am amazed at what I learn from a class. I almost always pick up something new. Here is a lineup of the classes coming up this week and next at Kiwi Knitting. If you cannot make one of these we can always schedule a private lesson. Check out the classes at www.KiwiKnitting.com for more. Classes are listed under Knitters Kamp and in the Newsletter.

 

Felted Clogs – These fun slippers will become a favorite of the whole family! Materials: 100 –

200g of worsted or chunky 100% non-superwash wool for a child or 300 – 400g for an adult; 16” & 24” US13 circular knitting needles; & Fibertrends pattern AC-33 or CH-38. Cost: $48.

Teacher: Jill Holbrook. 1 – 3 PM Tue Feb 26 – Mar 12. (3 sessions)

 

 

Lace Scarf -- You’ve learned the elements of lace knitting and are ready for your first project.How about a graceful scarf? The first week will get you started with a provisional cast on, tips and tricks of knitting lace and the rhythm of lace knitting. The second week will be all aboutedging and finishing the scarf. Materials: 400y (or more) lace weight or fingering weight yarn in a light color – much easier to see your work; US1, 2 or 3 knitting needles for lace yarn or US3, 4 & 5 for fingering (preferably circulars); crochet hook (2 - 2.25mm); stitch markers; scissors; a small amount of light weight contrasting yarn; and pencil & paper. Cost: $32. Teacher: Jill Holbrook. 1 – 3 PM Wed Feb 27 & Mar 6 (2 sessions)

Fair Isle Knitting -- Are you intrigued by the beauty of items made in patterns with 2 or more colors? Learn the techniques to start creating your own! Materials: small amts of 2 different colors of yarn & appropriate needles. Teacher: Jill Holbrook. 10 – Noon Thu Feb 28

 

 

Block by Block Afghan – Here is a fun class where you can experiment with different stitch

patterns & embellishments then finish with a unique conversation piece for your favorite chair or

sofa. Materials: 600g light, worsted yarn in MC; 200g in 3 CC’s; 100g in 2 more CC’s; US 7

knitting needles & US 6 DPN; & access to patterns from Knitting Block by Block by Nicky

Epstein. Cost: $16/ sessions. Teacher: Holly Harper. 10 AM – Noon Mon Mar 1, 18, 25,

April 1 & 29 (other sessions may be planned by the group).

There are lots more classes in March and April including beginning knitting and beginning crochet classes. If you do not see what you want please let us know. Suggestions are most welcome.

Knitting with Silk

Silk is a true luxury fiber known for its fabulous luster, drape and intense colors when dyed.

A Bit of History

The cultivation of silk began in China before 1500 B.C.E. The legend, myth or story of its discovery starts with a Chinese “princess” (or Emperor’s wife) who was sipping tea in the garden. A cocoon dropped into her cup. Strands loosened from the cocoon suggesting the strands could be unwound from the cocoon and joined together to make thread. Silk production became a protected secret and silk fabric a much desired commodity. The Silk Road became the primary trade route all because of silk. This brought much wealth to China.

Bombyx Mori Moth 

Where Silk Comes From

Silk begins as a tiny moth egg that hatches into a tiny caterpillar. The caterpillar consumes mulberry leaves almost nonstop for 3-5 weeks, growing to 10,000 times its original weight. When the caterpillar decides the time is right it begins to spin a cocoon where it will transform into a moth and begin the cycle all over again.

Silk Cocoons

The cocoon can be literally unwound and reeled into thread without twisting. It is so fine it takes 7 strands together or more to make a thread. This is the finest and most expensive form of silk yarn.

Silk and wool blend yarn

Not all silk yarns are the same. Cocoons can be stretched or carded into different forms for spinning into yarn that are smooth and lustrous or thick and thin or other textured yarns.

Knitting with silk

Silk has body and yet is beautifully supple. It has minimal elasticity so it is often blended with wool to add memory to the yarn. Silk in a cotton or wool blend adds drape. Silk is warm to wear in cold weather and cool to wear in summer.

• Pure silk yarn can be a bit slippery to knit through not as slippery as soy silk or bamboo yarns
• Any knit structure will work in although stockinette will show off its luster and lace its drape.
• Some silk yarns can be dense so cables should be knit sparingly in a silk yarn
• Play with needle sizes – go up a size to increase the drape and down a size if you need more body in a garment.

 

Silk is an absolute delight to knit. We are so lucky to have so many beautiful yarns of and with silk to enjoy